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The ancient Vines in the Trentino Region:
from the quiteness of the cellar to the cheerfulness at the table
Wine production in the Trentino Region constitutes the cultural bridge between the wine production in Continental Europe and the one in Mediterranean Europe. The first evidence suggesting wine production and its ritual use in the Trentino region dates back to the VI - V century B.C. among Rhaeto-Etruscan people in the Anaunia Valley (the modern Val di Non). They increased their knowledge about wine varieties thanks to contacts with Greek traders coming from Adria and Spina along the Valsugana Valley and part of the Adige Valley. These relationships remained strong also during the Venetian Rule in the Trentino Region.
Different cultural matrixes give vernacular names to a number of vines, which often belong to a small number of wine varieties according to specific morphologic and production characteristics such as berry softness, shape of the bunch of grapes, aroma of grapes and the place of origin. The great changes in the ampelographic platforms were not only the result of the integration of economic and cultural behaviours as it is today, but were also caused by other events, such as the last glaciation with big changes in climate (XIV-XVII century), grape-vine illnesses at the end of the XIX century, and the consequences of wars and trade treaties resulting in big migration flows and, therefore, in the depopulation of entire valleys. Out of the 56 vines in the census made by the Istituto Agrario di S. Michele (Agricultural Institute in S. Michele all'Adige) in 1883, only about twenty are left nowadays, and among these, only five or six are cultivated.
Starting from the 60s, thanks to the international ecology movement, public opinion has become aware of the importance of preserving biodiversity and of the need to contrast genetic erosion in crop and non-crop living organisms. However, banalisation of wine production in the world, which is characterized by the use of a small number of vines and by the standardization of procedures, has been the key factor in the re-use of ancient vines.
The rediscovery of ancient vines is the antidote chosen by winemakers in the Trentino region against wine standardization, and these wines should also remain elite products, for lovers of little simple things.
ATTILIO SCIENZA
Università degli Studi di Milano
University of Milan
Autochthonous White Wine
Blanc de Sers Vitigno Wanderbara and Veltliner Rosato Cantina (Winery) Casata Monfort Lavis
Nosiola Majano matured in acacia barriques Poli Francesco Santa Massenza
Autochthonous Red Wine
Pavana della Valsugana Poli Francesco Santa Massenza
Portoghese Casata Monfort Lavis
Destrani Franconia Pravis Lasino
S. Lorenzo Casata Monfort Lavis
Groppello di Revò Augusto Zadra Revò
IL MANIFESTO DELLE TRIPLE A - TRIPLE A MANIFEST
Manifest of Triple A Wine Makers
Agricoltori Artigiani Artisti (Farmers, Craftsmen, Artists)
Conceived and written by Luca Gargano in July 2001
This manifest has grown out of the realization that a great deal of wine currently produced in the world is standardized, i.e. resulting from agricultural and oenology techniques which mortifies the imprint of the vine, the impact of the land and the personality of the wine-maker.
Standardization is spreading similar wines all around the world, which are flat as regards their organoleptic characters and unable to defy time.
According to this manifest, each wine-maker should possess 3 basic skills, the 3 As, to make a great wine:
• A for Agricoltori (Farmers)
Only people who directly farm the vineyard can establish the correct relationship between man and grapevine, and obtain healthy and ripe grapes by using natural agricultural techniques.
• A for Artigiani (Craftsmen)
People need to use the methods and skills of craftsmen to make wine without modifying the genuine structure of grapes, and withouth altering the structure of wine.
• A for Artisti ("Artists")
Only a wine-maker with artistic sensitivity and respectful of his job and of his ideas can create a great wine which can exalt the characteristics of the land and of the vine.
A decalogue has been derived from this, and its rules have to be respected by wine-makers who wants to make Triple A Wine.
The Decalogue of Triple A Wine
Triple A Wine can derive only from:
– manual selection of future grape-vines, for a real mass selection
– wine-makers who are farmers, who cultivate vines without using chemicals respecting the grape-vine and its natural cycles
– fully healthy grapes picked when they are naturally ripened
– must without any addition of sulphur dioxide or of any other additive. A very small quantity of sulphur dioxide can be added at the moment of bottling
– indigenous yeast only and not from selected yeast
– wine-making without chemical or other interventions before and during the alcoholic fermentation but for temperatrure control. (Any intervention for wine concentration is forbidden).
– ageing on fine lees until bottling
– wine-making without correcting any chemical parameter
– wine-making without clarification and filtering before botlling
White Wine
Pinot Grigio Bergamini
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Emidio Pepe
Red Wine
Merlot “Dodòn “ Denis Montanar
Esegesi "Cabernet e Merlot" Eugenio Rosi
Poiema “ Marzemino dei Ziresi” Eugenio Rosi
White Wine from the Trentino Alto Adige Region
Valdadige Cantine Cavit Ravina
Prime Rose Cantine Cavit Ravina
Nosiola Bolognani Lavis
Chardonnay Battistotti Nomi
Pinot Grigio Casata Monfort Lavis
Pinot Bianco Zeni Grumo
Müller Thurgau Pojer & Sandri
Riesling Renano Pelz e Piffer Cembra
Sylvaner Valle Isarco Taschlerhof Bressanone
Weiss "Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay " Baron Widmann Cortaccia
Gewürztraminer “ Cancenai “ Rottensteiner Bolzano
Special Wine Selection
Sotsàs Cuvée "Sauvignon, Chardonnay, I. Manzoni" Maso Cantanghel Civezzano
Stravino "Chardonnay, I. Manzoni, Riesling, Kerner, Sauvignon" Pravis Lasino
Chardonnay Selezione Praistel Longariva Rovereto
Besler Blank "Pinot B., Riesling R, Sauvignon, Inc. Manzoni e Kerner" Pojer & Sandri Faedo
Kerner “ Prepositus “ Novacella
Sauvignon Baron Widmann Cortaccia
Gewürztraminer Selezione Baron Widmann Cortaccia
Special Wine from Italy
Soave Classico Suavia Soave
Tocai del Collio Draga San Floriano del Collio
Orvieto Secco Mottura Civitella d’Agliano
Vernaccia di S. Gimignano Ris. La Lastra San Gimignano
Verdicchio di Matelica Azienda del Carmine
Vermentino di Gallura Pedra Majore Calangius
Prosecco Vallis Mareni Premaor
Special Wine from France
Chablise Chaude Ecuelle
Poully Fumé Gui Saget
Red Wine from the Trentino Alto Adige Region
Valdadige Rosso Cavit Ravina
Marzemino Simoncelli Rovereto
Teroldego Rotaliano Fedrizzi Mezzolombardo
Pinot Nero “Blauburgunder” Rottensteiner Bolzano
Merlot Battistotti Nomi
Vernaccia Baron Widmann Cortaccia
Cabernet Sauvignon Balter Rovereto
Rebo Pravis Lasino
Lagrein Casata Monfort Lavis
Lago di Caldaro “Kalterersee” Rottensteiner Bolzano
Quattro Vicariati "Merlot - Cabernet" Cavit Ravina
Rot "Cabernet Sauvignon e Franc - Merlot" Baron Widmann Cortaccia
Cabernet Sauvignon
Special Wine Selection
Marzemino Selezione Letrari Rovereto
Besler Ross "Pinot Nero, Zweigelt Franconia, Negrara , Groppello" Pojer & Sandri Faedo
Syrah Pravis Lasino
Barbanico "Cabernet, Merlot, Lagrein" Balter Rovereto
Pinot Nero Riserva Zinzele Longariva Rovereto
Cabernet Sauvignon “ Marognon “ Longariva Rovereto
Rosso Faye "Cabernet S. Cabernet F.Merlot Lagrein" Pojer & Sandri Faedo
Auhof "Cabernet Sauvignon e Franc, Merlot e Syrah" Baron Widmann
Tre Cesure Ris. Marco Manica "Cabernet, Merlot" Longariva Rovereto
Campi Sarni "Cabernet, Merlot"Vallarom Avio
Teroldego Dei Pini Barriques Zeni Grumo
Teroldego Vigilius Barriques De Vescovi Ulzbach Mezzacorona
San Leonardo "Cabernet, Merlot" Guerrieri Gonzaga Borghetto all’Adige
Special Wine from Italy
Lambrusco Grasparossa Barbolini
Lambrusco Amabile Barbolini
Valpolicella Classico Brigaldara
Bardolino Vigna della Corte
Barbera Oltrepò Pavese Montini
Bonarda Oltrepò Pavese Montini
Chianti Classico San Giorgio a Lapi
Rosso Montepulciano Lombardo
Rovaio La Lastra
Cannonau “Tonaghe” Contini
Primitivo di Manduria Feudi Salentini
Nero d’Avola “Terra delle Sirene” Zenner
Amarone Valpilicella Classico Brigaldara
Brunello di Montalcino Palazzo
Barolo Virna
Sassicaia 2002 Tenuta San Guido
Special Wine from France
Châteauneuf du Pape Jean Quiot
La Grave Martillac Château Latour-Martillac
Rosé Wine
Schiava Atesina Cavit Ravina
Prime Rose Cavit Ravina
Lagrein Kretzer Rottensteiner Bolzano
Pinot Nero Rosato Zeni Grumo
Blanc de Noir Kranzl Cermes
Dessert Wine
Moscato Giallo 0,5 Casata Monfort Lavis
Moscato Rosa 0,375 Zeni Grumo
Vino Santo Trentino “Arele”0,375 Pravis
Riesling Renano 0,5 10 Vendemmie Tardive Pelz e Piffer
Recioto Classico “ Acinatico” 0,5 Accordini
Merlino 0,5 Pojer & Sandri
Château Bècherau Sauternes 0,375 Bommes
Spumante & Champagne
Müller Thurgau
Rotari
Cesarini e Sforza
Brut Rosè Pojer & Sandri
Ferrari
Altemasi
Moët Chandon
Veuve Cliquot
Dom Perignon
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